Even in the frenetic environment in which most people live, there are still signs that the seasons are passing: the first cuckoo of spring; the first barbecue smoke of summer; and the first restaurant ad in the papers for Christmas parties.

But while the advent of the festive party season may be met with a mock groan, the fact is that most people secretly look forward to it – as restaurants which face the mounting tide of bookings know only too well.

The smart party organiser will be on the move now to make sure there’s a fighting chance of getting close to the dates that suit everybody - a hard enough task in the first place. As the festive season approaches, unbooked tables in the month of December become as rare as hen’s teeth.

At Paperino’s West End, our preparations for Christmas are well advanced, from the precise planning of the menu to buying decorations and tailoring the needs of individual parties. So far the biggest one booked is for 100 people.

There’s nothing worse than turning the phone red hot at the last minute, then ending up with a down-the-list choice which takes the fizz out of the occasion. Yes, the leaves may barely be brown on the trees, but now is the season to book early for Christmas.